Expat and emigration interview: meet Marja who goes to Curacao every year to skip the winter (in her homecountry)

Who is Marja?

• Marja is 73 years old. She first visited Curaçao 20 years ago and fell in love with the island.

Motivation & Experiences

What do people need to know about you to understand your story of spending the winter in Curaçao?

• I really hate the winters in the Netherlands. I hate having to go grocery shopping on my bike in the rain and biting wind and having to stay indoors all winter. That’s the main reason I go to Curaçao in the winter. 

How do you prepare for wintering?

• When I was still working, I would go on vacation to Curaçao once or twice a year for about eight or nine days. My husband couldn’t always come along, so over the years I’ve dragged a lot of friends and family with me. When I got more free time, I went to Curaçao for four weeks. I actually wanted to stay longer back then, but I wanted to try it out first. After that, it’s gotten a little longer every year. For the past six years, I’ve been going for three months—January, February, and March. Really just to spend the winter.

What does your life look like? What kind of work or activities make you feel like you’re truly “at home” in Curaçao?

• Life is easier. In Curaçao, you always know what the weather will be like. There’s no uncertainty—there’s always sunshine, the temperature is always the same, and there’s a steady breeze. Plus, all the colors make me really happy, unlike the gray in the Netherlands. On top of that, Curaçao is very laid-back; the people are laid-back.
• In the morning in the Netherlands, I’m always wondering what to wear and what the weather will be like. You have to plan ahead and change clothes midday because it ends up being too cold or too hot. Here, you just grab something from a rack of summer clothes. It’s perfect and you can wear it all day long. Back when I could only go to Curaçao for a week, I’d get really homesick for Curaçao in the Netherlands—I’d physically miss it. I’d often have the news or a radio station from Curaçao playing in the background. Now that I can spend the winter here for a long time, I’m totally fine in the Netherlands for the rest of the year. 
• I feel at home because we’ve been renting the same house for the past six years; you always know where everything is because we’re always in the same place.

How does your daily routine differ from that in your home country?

• In Amsterdam, I always have to go grocery shopping by bike. Here, I can take the car (cycling is really out of the question here), because it’s easy to park anywhere. You throw your clothes in the washing machine, and an hour later they’re dry. The wind irons them, so they’re neatly back in the closet the same day. In the Netherlands, you’re stuck indoors all winter. In Curaçao, the front door and the shutters open at 6 a.m. so the breeze can blow through. You can sit outside all day and evening, and everything doesn’t close again until 10 p.m.

Do you have any thoughts about the future?

• Every year is another year added to our lives, and we don’t take it for granted. At our age, things can change from one year to the next. 

Culture & Social Interactions

What was your first encounter with a local resident?

• Unfortunately, I don’t have much contact with the local population, though I do interact with the people I use services from—like car rental agencies, restaurants, shops, and so on.

Do you have any tips for meeting people?

• For example, you get to know your neighbor, and through that person you meet more and more people. By coming back every year, we get to know more and more people. People come and go. The pensioner’s scheme (10% scheme) stipulates that you may stay in the Netherlands for a maximum of 6 months. Often, the people who officially live here under that scheme are away half the time. People who have moved here find it difficult that friends and acquaintances keep leaving.

What is the best or most inspiring thing about skipping the winter in the cold and live in Curaçao?

• People are much more relaxed, which has its pros and cons. In traffic, no one is in a hurry and everyone lets you in. At the supermarket checkout, things can sometimes move very slowly. Then I tell myself to stay calm—you have all the time in the world… No one is in a hurry. 

What is your favorite local tradition or holiday?

• The New Year’s Day dip at Jan Thiel in the warm water, with the Unox hats—that’s funny. And of course, Carnival. It’s very different from the Netherlands. You really have to see the Gran Marsha on Carnival Sunday at least once.

Challenges & Growth

Have there been moments when you doubted your choice?

• No, never. I still find it hard to go back home. Even after three months of staying in Curaçao.

In hindsight, what would you have liked to know about Curaçao beforehand?

• The hiking clubs on Curaçao are really fun. They take you to places you’d normally never go. That way, you learn and see so much more of the island. Find a place to live that suits you and that you like. The first 10 years I was in Curaçao, everything was very cheap; not anymore. Now, only services like the hairdresser, housekeeping, and manicures are much cheaper than in the Netherlands. And gas.

How do you deal with homesickness or loneliness? What do you miss the most?

• No, I never get homesick for the Netherlands. I only miss my (grand)children, but that’s more than made up for by being able to FaceTime and call. And I do miss Hello Fresh a little bit, haha.

Are there things you appreciate more about your home country now that you’re here?

• It’s pretty complicated to order anything online here, so that’s almost impossible. But at the same time, that’s actually good for my wallet. In the summer (July, August, September), I don’t like it in Curaçao—the wind dies down, and it gets way too hot for me. In the spring and summer, I’d rather be in the Netherlands, because it’s usually lovely there… 

Practical rules & issues

How do you deal with bureaucracy in Curaçao? Do you ever have to deal with it?

• I don’t have to arrange anything else with government agencies here, so I don’t have much to do with it.

How did you find a suitable place to live?

• During the pandemic, there was so much housing available; everyone was looking for tenants. I posted a wish list on Facebook and got about 100 responses. We were then able to get a fantastic place at a good price that had previously been out of our reach. Prices have since returned to normal levels, but now we’re attached to this place and spoiled. So we’re cutting back on other things to be able to rent it again.

What are the biggest differences in costs between Curaçao and your home country?

• Gas and services are cheaper than in the Netherlands. At the supermarket, you have to pay close attention to the price tags, because some things are absurdly expensive. Only meat is cheap here; fruits and vegetables are the same as in the Netherlands, and the rest is generally more expensive. Some supermarkets don’t display prices, so you’ll be in for a surprise at the checkout. People also say that the prices at the registers are often incorrect, so you should check your receipt very carefully.

Have you used local healthcare services (general practitioner, specialist, dentist, etc.) in Curaçao and what stands out to you?

• My own experience with healthcare has been very good. The ambulance comes when you need it. Hospitals are also very good. I’ve hardly ever had to wait. Still, many Dutch people who’ve come to live here return to the Netherlands for healthcare when they get really old. From Curaçao, you have to go to Colombia if there’s something really serious or complicated. The question then is whether you can even be transported.

What the health care in Curaçao similar to or completely different from Dutch healthcare?

• Compared to Amsterdam, I can see a general practitioner much faster here. Usually on the same day. The doctor will also make house calls if necessary. Specialized care is generally better in the Netherlands. 

What is useful for others to know or keep in mind?

• Make sure you get good cancellation insurance. Pay attention to the maximum consecutive period you’re allowed to be away. We had one for up to 90 days and were gone for 91 days. That cost us a lot of money when my husband got sick. Pay attention to what the GP prescribes.  They sometimes order unnecessary tests because they know your health insurance in the Netherlands will cover it anyway.
• You’re almost always sent to the lab for blood tests and urine tests. They also sometimes prescribe a lot of medication and/or medical devices that aren’t necessary.

Are there any specific issues or tips regarding “safety” or “health” that would be helpful for others planning to live or work at your destination for an extended period?

• Don’t always rely on GPS. For four years, guided by Google Maps and Maps.me, we drove down a certain street almost every day—a shortcut to our house. When my husband once collided with another car there, it turned out you weren’t allowed to drive down that street. The traffic sign indicating that had been bent out of shape. Still, we were held fully liable for the damage.

Meaningful activities

Have you developed any new hobbies or interests since living in Curaçao?

• I volunteer for a Curaçaoan nature conservation foundation, and I enjoy hiking in nature. That’s a bit harder to do from Amsterdam. I’ve also been doing aqua aerobics in the sea for years. I really love that, and of course, you can’t do that in the Netherlands.

Are there any projects or activities you’re involved in that give you a sense of fulfillment? What do you do in your free time to feel connected to yourself and your surroundings?

• Until last year, I also worked online from Curaçao for 20 hours a week for a Dutch organization. Now I volunteer for the Uniek Curaçao Foundation.

Communication

Have you learned the local language, and if so, how?

• Unfortunately not. I would love to understand and speak it, and I’ve even tried taking lessons. But it’s harder when you’re older to pick up Papiumentu again after spending months in the Netherlands. I know very few Dutch people who speak Papiumentu. It’s also a difficult language. And there’s not really a need for it because almost everyone speaks Dutch.

How do you stay in touch with people in your home country?

• Staying in touch with home is very easy—everything works with Wi-Fi. There’s Wi-Fi everywhere. You don’t need to get an e-SIM. An e-SIM for three months is pretty expensive relative to the cost, so I don’t really buy those anymore.